Roaster's Tasting Notes: Plum Wine / Cactus / Lychee / Magnolia / Spearmint / Peach Rings
Process: Intense Anaerobic
Varieties: Ateng Super
Roast Date: September 12
Traffic is located in Montreal, Quebec
WOWOWEEWAAAA! VERY NICE!
This coffee is so funky with tons of beautiful florals & fruit notes splashed onto this canvas that is Pantan Musara. Like a Riopelle painting, it's chaotic & full of colors and textures, taking you on a journey that lingers in the finish & keeps you coming back for more. This is one of the best coffees we've had all year & from one of the very best producers in all of Indonesia. It's not cheap, but it's 100% worth your hard earned dollars if unique, exquisite coffees are your thing.
As always, treat yourself, don't cheat yourself.
The son of a coffee producer in Aceh, Hendra Maulizar started aprocessing station in 2010, growing it from just one acreto 10 hectares. Beginning in 2014, he shifted his focus to specialty coffee production, investing in post-harvest processing
experimentation and facilities—such as a wet mill, gravitation washing channels, and raised drying beds. His innovationand pursuit of quality has led to Hendra winning #7 in the Cup of Excellence Indonesia competition in 2021 and #16 in
2022. At his processing station in Aceh-Pantan Musara Village, Hendra purchases cherry from 50 farmers surrounding his wet mill.
Led by Hendra Maulizar, the Gegaring Team produces some of the highest quality, most sought after micro lots in all of Indonesia. They are processing these coffees in the mountains of central Aceh in North Sumatra. Winning 16th & 7th in back to back Cup of Excellence showings.
Hendra works with three farms in Aceh Gayo. He makes himself available to watch over the entire process from start to finish while relying on a team of incredible producers who work together to see each other succeed. Most of their coffees fly under the banner name of Pegasing, where the coffees are farmed and collected into central facilities. Fusing innovations in fermentation and drying with Sumatra's unique varieties, Hendra has made his team of producers and his methods the premier pioneering act in Sumatra specialty coffee processes.
To talk about Sumatra we need to speak of its size. It’s large. Larger than Texas and Florida combined. In the middle of the island is a caldera called Lake Toba: the largest caldera from the largest volcanic explosion this world has ever seen.
In this lake there is an island bigger than the country of Singapore. It is because of this lake that Sumatra has the largest rainfall seen by any coffee exporting country – the lake feeds clouds trapped in by the island’s 1500m tall mountains. Sumatra is old. When Marco Polo visited the island’s northern tip back in 1292, he found the local people speaking Sanskrit, one of the purest remaining forms of the ancient language. When the Dutch East Indian Trading Company came, Aceh (and later Java) became the first commercial coffee origins that the world had seen.Sumatra is big; I know we already said that, but it is really, really big. There are over 52 languages over four major ethnic groups (Acehnese, Minangkabaunese, Batak and Mala) covering an area over 170,500 square miles around. However big the island, however, there is only one government-authorized port of export – the 15 million person city of Medan. To get here, coffee has to travel as far as 375 miles, over massive mountains and on roads that are mostly still mud. That’s 20 hours north to the producing regions Gayo Aceh, or 24 hours to the southern most Arabica regions in Kerinci. And this is the main reason that Sumatran coffee is hulled while wet, and dried while in the green. Called Giling Basah, this process starts with coffee parchment being dried to 30-50% moisture before being milled into green beans. Higher moisture during transport from the farm to the port can lend to the classic ‘earthy, musty’ flavors that you get in some Sumatrans. Another source of Sumatra’s unique flavors dates back to the turn of the 20th century when Indonesia’s coffee crop was wiped out by leaf rust. Much of this was replaced with HDT (Hybrid de Timor) (Bourbon x Robusta), its direct descendant Tim Tim, or the more modern Sigarar Utang (Tim Tim x Bourbon).
And these are Robusta-Arabica hybrids; over the generations these have only added more Arabica through crossing Tim-Tim and with Sigarar Utang (Ateng). But there are pure Arabica strains as well, like Jember (Bourbon x Typica), USDA (Ethiopian Arabica transplant), and Onan Ganjan (Jember x Bourbon). So the genetic stock is absolutely unique. But what makes Sumatra truly unique are Sumatrans. As a new generation takes the reigns, they are taking the country headlong into specialty. The past years have seen an explosion of washed coffees, naturals, honeys, new varietals, new regions and new ways of thinking about Sumatra’s role in specialty coffee. Not just locally, but regionally –Indonesian coffee has so much to offer, and so much of what comes out of Bali, Flores, Timor and Sulawesi comes through Sumatra.